Can a Reciprocating Saw Cut Metal?

On this page (8 sections)

1. What kind of metal can a reciprocating saw cut?
2. How do you choose a blade for cutting metal?
3. Which blade should you pick for each metal job?
4. How does blade material affect the cut?
5. How do you set up and make a clean metal cut?
6. How do you avoid burning or snapping blades?
7. What are the limits of a reciprocating saw on metal?
8. Which saw and blade combination should you buy?

Yes, a reciprocating saw can cut metal, as long as you fit a metal-cutting blade and keep the saw's speed and pressure under control. Thin sheet, pipe, angle iron, and channel are all normal jobs for one.

The blade does most of the deciding. A saw with the right blade slices through household metal in minutes, while the same saw with a wood blade just polishes the surface and dulls.

Below is how to pick the blade, what the saw can and can't handle, and how to cut without ruining the blade or the part.

What kind of metal can a reciprocating saw cut?

A reciprocating saw cuts mild steel, aluminum, copper, and other common soft metals up to about 4 in thick in pipe and profiles. Sheet metal, tubing, angle iron, channel, rebar, and threaded rod are all within reach for a saw with a metal blade fitted.

The saw's strength is speed on thin and hollow stock. A 14 TPI blade on a 12 amp saw moves through 1/8 in sheet, 2 in pipe, and light angle iron quickly.

Milwaukee's Torch blade data lists pipe, channels, tubing, and angle iron up to 4 in among its applications, which is a fair picture of the ceiling for this tool.

Hardened steel is a different matter. Case-hardened bolts, hardened tool steel, and thick solid bar dull a standard bi-metal blade fast.

For those, a carbide-tipped blade or an abrasive cutoff saw is the better tool.

The saw also has to fit around the work. A long stroke and a bulky body need clearance behind the cut, so cutting pipe close to a wall or in a tight corner is awkward.

Plan the cut so the saw body has room to travel.

How do you choose a blade for cutting metal?

Match the tooth count to the metal's thickness, and the blade length to the cut's reach. A 14 TPI blade covers most household metal, while finer teeth suit thin sheet and coarser teeth suit thick stock.

Blade tooth count is teeth per inch. Higher counts cut smoother and slower; lower counts clear chips faster and suit thicker material.

• 18 TPI and finer: thin sheet from about 1/8 in to 3/16 in, plus electrical conduit and trim. Milwaukee's 18 TPI blades are listed for material 1/8 in to 3/16 in thick.
• 14 TPI: the everyday metal blade. It handles pipe, angle iron, channel, and sheet in the 0.1 to 0.3 in range, which covers most plumbing and framing jobs.
• 10 to 12 TPI: thicker solid stock and heavy profiles, where chip clearance matters more than a smooth edge.

Blade length sets how deep you can reach. A 6 in blade suits pipe and sheet; a 9 in blade reaches across wider profiles and lets you cut closer to a floor or ceiling without the saw body fouling.

Our guide to the best reciprocating saws for cutting metal compares saws that handle these blades well.

Bi-metal blades hold an edge longer than plain steel, because the teeth are hardened while the body stays flexible. The TOLESA 5-pack uses a bi-metal body with an 8% cobalt edge, which is the construction you want for repeated metal cuts.

Which blade should you pick for each metal job?

Start with a 14 TPI bi-metal blade and move up or down in tooth count only when the cut tells you to. Most home metal work never needs a second blade type.

Thin sheet is the exception. A coarse blade grabs thin metal and shakes the saw, so step up to 18 TPI or finer for ductwork, gutter, and panel.

For thick wall pipe or solid bar, step down to 10 to 12 TPI so the teeth can clear the chips.

Length matters more than most people expect. If you're cutting a pipe flush to a wall, a longer blade gets the saw body clear of the obstruction.

If you're cutting overhead or in a cabinet, a short blade keeps the saw compact and easier to control.

How does blade material affect the cut?

Bi-metal is the default for metal work, because the flexible body resists snapping and the hardened teeth stay sharp. Plain high-speed steel cuts faster in soft metal but wears out sooner.

A plain high-speed steel blade is fine for light sheet and the odd cut, but for regular metal work a bi-metal blade is the better long-term buy. For regular metal work, a bi-metal blade is the better long-term buy.

The Milwaukee Torch blade uses a heat-treating process that the brand says extends blade life, and its 1 in height keeps the cut straight.

Cobalt edges are the next step up. The TOLESA blades use bi-metal with an 8% cobalt edge for better wear resistance, and a thin 0.9 mm wall with set teeth to limit heat build-up.

That combination suits repeated cuts in pipe and profile better than a basic blade.

The 9 in length gives you reach on wider profiles, and the 14 TPI teeth are the everyday metal count. A five-pack means you can keep a fresh blade in the saw and a spare in the case.

For a saw that takes standard 1/2 in shanks, this set fits the common brands.

How do you set up and make a clean metal cut?

Mark the line, clamp the work, fit the blade, and cut at a moderate speed with light pressure. Let the teeth do the work instead of forcing the saw.

1. Mark and score. Draw the cut line and score it with a file or a light pass. A score gives the blade a groove to follow.
2. Clamp the work. Metal moves and vibrates under the blade. A clamp or vise keeps the cut straight and the part safe.
3. Fit the blade. Check the teeth point the right way for the cut and the blade sits tight in the clamp.
4. Start slow. Begin at low speed to start the groove, then raise speed once the blade is tracking.
5. Keep the shoe on the work. The pivoting shoe steadies the saw and helps control depth.
6. Cut on the waste side. Any drift stays outside the finished part.

A steady hand and a light feed beat a fast, hard push. Pushing overheats the blade and can bend it in the cut.

How do you avoid burning or snapping blades?

Run the saw at a moderate speed, keep the blade straight, and stop if it starts to chatter. Heat and side load are what kill metal blades.

Too much speed generates heat without clearing chips. The blade glows, softens, and dulls.

Too much pressure bends the blade, and a bent blade in a deep cut snaps.

Watch for the warning signs. Blue discoloration means heat; a wandering cut means side load.

Ease off and let the blade cool before carrying on.

Thin sheet and pipe need a fine blade and light pressure. Thick solid stock needs a coarser blade and a slower feed.

The right blade and the right speed do more for blade life than any technique trick.

What are the limits of a reciprocating saw on metal?

The saw struggles with thick solid steel, hardened parts, and long straight cuts that need a clean finish. It's a demolition and rough-cutting tool, not a precision saw.

Solid bar over about 1/2 in thick, case-hardened bolts, and hardened tool steel are all slow going. A carbide blade helps but doesn't turn the saw into a metal-cutting bandsaw.

An abrasive cutoff saw or a portable band saw does those jobs faster and cleaner.

Long straight cuts in sheet are also awkward. The blade flexes and the cut wanders.

A shear or an angle grinder with a cutting disc gives a straighter edge on long sheet runs.

Finish quality is the other limit. A reciprocating saw leaves a rough edge that needs filing or grinding.

If the cut is visible, plan for cleanup.

Which saw and blade combination should you buy?

The DeWalt DWE305 with a bi-metal blade is the practical setup for household metal cuts. The 12 amp motor and variable speed trigger give you enough power and control for pipe, angle iron, and sheet.

The 4-position blade clamp lets you turn the blade for flush cutting, which helps when trimming pipe close to a surface. The 0 to 2,900 strokes per minute and 1-1/8 in stroke give it speed for thin metal.

The 8 lb weight and cord are the trade-off: it's heavier than a cordless saw and needs an outlet.

The Milwaukee Torch blade is 1 in tall for straight cutting and flexes in tight spots. Its 14 TPI teeth suit general metal work.

For cutting metal cleanly, pair a saw like the DeWalt with a blade set like this or the TOLESA pack and keep a spare on hand.

A reciprocating saw can cut metal, and for most household jobs it's the fastest tool you already own. Fit a 14 TPI bi-metal blade, clamp the work, and cut at a moderate speed.

For thin sheet, step up in tooth count; for thick stock, step down or reach for a different saw.

If you're also cutting masonry, see can a reciprocating saw cut concrete before you start. For plastic pipe, our guide to how to cut PVC pipe with a reciprocating saw covers the blade and technique.

And if you're wondering about angled cuts, what angles a reciprocating saw can cut explains the shoe and blade positions.

Frequently asked questions

Can a reciprocating saw cut a steel bolt or threaded rod?

Yes, with a fine metal blade and a slow, steady stroke. Clamp the rod so it can't spin, start the cut on a flat spot, and let the teeth work rather than forcing the saw.

Thick bolts take longer than sheet or pipe.

Do I need to remove the blade to change materials?

Yes, swap to a blade matched to the material before you start. A wood blade used on metal dulls fast and can catch, and a fine metal blade in wood overheats.

Keyless clamps on most saws make the change quick.

How do I stop the blade from wandering on a metal cut?

Mark the line clearly and score it with a file or a light pass first. Start the blade flat against the edge at low speed, keep both hands on the saw, and cut on the waste side of the line so any drift stays outside the finished part.